🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.